What is ambergris?
Ambergris is a waxy, buoyant substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It forms when these marine mammals cannot fully digest squid beaks and other hard materials, triggering a secretion that, once expelled into the sea, undergoes years of oxidation and photodegradation until it becomes the precious ambergris.
History and uses of ambergris
Since antiquity, ambergris has been valued for its unique properties. The ancient Egyptians burned it as incense, the Chinese believed it was dragon's spittle, and in medieval Europe it was used in pomades and as an aphrodisiac. In modern perfumery it has served as a natural fixative, extending the life of fragrances and adding complex, lasting olfactory notes.
Properties of ambergris
- Aroma: its scent evolves over time. It can be unpleasant at first, but with oxidation it takes on sweet, earthy, marine and tobacco notes.
- Texture and colour: ranges from light grey to black, with a waxy, brittle texture.
- Chemical composition: it contains ambrein, a compound that acts as a fixative in perfumery.
How to identify ambergris
Identifying genuine ambergris can be challenging. Drawing on my own experience, here are a few practical methods:
- Buoyancy: ambergris is light and should float in salt water.
- Evolving aroma: black pieces may smell of dung; over time they develop tobacco and seaweed notes and, finally, a characteristic oceanic scent.
- Texture: it should be hard yet brittle, breaking in your hands without crumbling like wax.
- Thread test: when a small piece is warmed on a spoon and pressed between the fingers, it should form a sticky thread as you pull them apart.
Genuine vs. fake ambergris
- Wax: fakes are often made of wax, which, when warmed on a spoon and pressed between thumb and forefinger, does not form a thin thread as you separate your fingers.
- Resins: some resins can look similar but lack the evolving aroma and texture of ambergris.
- Stones: sometimes a simple stone of the same colour can be mistaken for ambergris.
Natural ambergris in perfumery: tinctures and varieties
Ambergris is prized for its marine, musky and ambery facets. Its aroma varies with the material and how it has aged. If you want to work with it in a formula, explore our grey ambergris tinctures and brown ambergris tinctures — two distinct profiles for perfumery.
You can also discover our collection of animalic perfumery materials.
